A recent post by Gerard Cosloy referred me to Sergio Ornelas' admirably profane rant against the mainstream adoption of "designer streetwear." Serg writes:
Designer streetwear is a crock of shit created for a bunch of bitchmade idiots who are too stupid to decide what is cool for themselves. I don't give a fuck if you like shoes or cool shirts. That's beside the point. What is stupid is this idea that a whole style that was jacked from poor kids in the hood trying to rock fly shit is now some bullshit bourgeois sense of style for a bunch of rich mediocre skaters who day dream of doing graffiti in something other than their shitty notebook...
I don't give a fuck about fashion or even people paying way too much money for some bullshit designer crap just because it was on a fucking runway. What annoys me is how this shit wants to put up some front of being down with the "streets." It’s not even on a hood level, it's just straight up "hey rich kids lets earn cool kid points with overpriced limited edition footwear made by small hands in the 3rd world."
Hmmm. To the extent that it's possible for an out-of-touch unhipster like myself to fully understand all the issues in play here, I agree with Serg's assertion that "designer streetwear is a crock," but I couldn't disagree more with the underlying rationale that it's inauthentic, and therefore fundamentally wrong, for upscale white kids to cop styles from "poor kids in the hood."
The concept of authenticity is a straitjacket meant to keep us in our culturally assigned places, and it's simply no longer relevant, if it ever was. The mirror image of Serg's position is the century-long effort by white authority figures to "protect" mainstream culture from the "pernicious" influence of African-Americans. And whether it's a well-intentioned but misguided attempt to stand up for "poor kids in the hood," or a blatantly racist attempt to "keep white America white," the end result is the same. Support for "authenticity" equals opposition to "miscegenation."
But American culture has always found a way to overcome the artificial boundaries drawn by the defenders of "authenticity." Critics of the "melting pot" metaphor for America were right to resist its implication that groups outside the traditional WASP mainstream must lose their individual identity to fit in. But the "mosaic" metaphor that's been suggested as a substitute is just as flawed, because it fails to reflect the dynamic interplay that constantly occurs among sub-cultures and between sub-cultures and the mainstream.
And although I look at upper-class white teens in their "designer streetwear" and think they're fools, I also recognize that it's merely the latest example of cross-cultural migration, a process that is essential to the evolution and health of our culture. And the pace of change is accelerating, driven by the our collective desire for the next new thing and by consumer capitalism's unique ability to both fulfill and stoke that desire.
If you listen carefully to Serg's message, you actually hear a very conservative message--not merely resistance to change, but a desire to turn the clock back and return to an era when we were more "authentic" because our cultural signifiers--our clothing, our music--were inherited, not selected/bought/stolen. But I also sense in his frustration a recognition that he's fighting for a lost cause. The era of authenticity is over, and perhaps it never even began in this country. The idea that you can choose your own identity was implicit in America's founding, and our history has been a slow but steady effort to fulfill that promise for all of us.
I'm not so naive as to think that the end of authenticity will usher in an era of rainbow-colored, hand-holding, multi-culti celebration. The end of authenticity also opens the door to bullshit of the highest order, and creates endless opportunities for quacks, hucksters and phonies. Serg may be right to suggest that "designer streetwear" is one such opportunity.
But the alternative to this postmodern blender is the enshrinement of authenticity, which ultimately results in a static, sterile, changeless society. And I'd rather live in a society where we are free to choose our identities for ourselves, even though some people will choose identities that are so inauthentic as to be absurd, than have traditional--but authentic--identities forced upon us. The choice is that stark.


tags: sergdun gerard cosloy designer streetwear authenticity