In the May 1st New Yorker, Bill Buford goes to Italy, satiates his bloodlust, realizes that kitsch can be beautiful, returns to New York, and butchers a 200 lb. pig on his kitchen table.
(And if it's true, I'm particularly impressed by the fact that he transported the dead pig home from the market slung over the handlebars of his Vespa with his wife riding pillion. No mean feat, to be sure.)
My favorite pork chop recipe, adapted from Cook's Illustrated, after the jump.
Pork Chops with Vinegar and Sweet Peppers
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup salt
4 bone-in rib loin pork chops, 3/4 to 1 inch thick, 7-9 oz.
3/4 tsb ground black pepper
2 Tbs olive oil
1 large onion, chopped finely
2 large red or yellow bell peppers, cut into 1/4 inch wide strips
1 sprig fresh rosemary
3/4 cup water
1/2 cup + 2 Tbs white wine vinegar
2 Tbs unsalted butter, cold
2 Tbs chopped fresh parsley
salt and pepper to taste
1. Dissolve sugar and 1/2 cup table salt in 2 quarts water in large container; add pork chops and refrigerate 30 minutes. (Even if you're only doing two chops, don't change the ingredients for the brine.) Remove chops from brine; thoroughly pat dry with paper towels, season with 3/4 teaspoon pepper, and set aside.
2. Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 400 degrees. Heat oil in heavy-bottomed ovensafe 12-inch nonreactive skillet over medium-high heat until oil begins to smoke; swirl skillet to coat with oil. Place chops in skillet; cook until well browned, 3 to 4 minutes, using spoon or spatula to press down on center of chops to aid in browning. Using tongs, flip chops and brown lightly on second side, about 1 minute. Transfer chops to large plate; set aside.
3. Set skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to soften, about 2 minutes. Add peppers and rosemary; cook, stirring frequently, until peppers just begin to soften, about 4 minutes. Add water and 1/2 cup vinegar and bring to boil, scraping up browned bits with wooden spoon. Reduce heat to medium; simmer until liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup, 6 to 8 minutes. Off heat, discard rosemary.
4. Return pork chops, browned side up, to skillet; nestle chops in peppers, but do not cover chops with peppers. Add any accumulated juices to skillet; set skillet in oven and cook until center of chops registers 135 to 140 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 8 to 12 minutes (begin checking temperature after 6 minutes). Using potholders, carefully remove skillet from oven (handle will be very hot) and cover skillet with lid or foil; let stand until center of chops registers 145 to 150 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer chops to platter or individual plates. Swirl butter into sauce and peppers in skillet; stir in optional 2 tablespoons vinegar, if using, and parsley. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper, then pour or spoon sauce and peppers over chops. Serve immediately.
